Jabulani is all about elephants – it’s the camp of Adine Roode, who founded the HERD elephant orphanage on the same property. By staying at this intimate camp you’ll be supporting Adine’s inspiring conservation efforts.

The HERD elephants have all been rescued from some untenable situation – orphaned as babies, or their livelihoods threatened in Zimbabwe. They sleep in a purpose built “stable” at night, and in the day they walk freely around the reserve, accompanied by human minders to prevent them encountering problems with the wild herds. Caring for the young ones is a delicate and expensive process, but as soon as possible they’re integrated into the herd.

I first visited in 2019 and was so moved that I offered to assist with fundraising during the 2020 lockdown when Jabulani had no tourism revenue. I donated a set of 35 linocut prints (of elephants, of course!), which were given to funders.

The great feature here is being able to observe and interact (to a limited extent, of course) with the elephants. You can arrange to meet at an elephant, out in the wild, but behind some protective boulders. It’s a simple but incredible experience – you get to see right close-up the incredible trunks as they nimbly take pellets from your hand. The trunk will sniff you out, rub against you, the big eyes of these beings looking down.

It’s also worth asking to view the midday swim in one of the dams, to watch the sheer joy of the elephants cooling down, rolling around in the water and interacting. They can be quite a noisy and boisterous bunch!

Game viewing is excellent too – the only place I’ve seen Pangolin in the wild. Jabulani is on the Kapama Game Reserve, a large privately owned reserve started by Adine’s father several decades ago. Although it’s next to other private reserves which have dropped their fences with Kruger, Kapama is still fenced off, in order to protect the HERD elephants from rogue wild elephants. Some of it was formerly fruit orchards, which explains some of the open areas. It has all the big five, but no cheetah.

Jabulani is a member of Relais & Chateau, so you can expect high standards of cuisine, presented in a relatively formal way – the chef will explain the options available for each mail to you in person, and they are excellent at dealing with any special requests.

The camp is very comfortable in a more old-fashioned, under-thatch style. The main thatched lodge looks onto a waterhole, and then you walk over a footbridge to the suites which are freestanding, each discreetly tucked away in the bush. Each suite has a small deck and plunge pool. More modern camps have larger suites, but this is perfectly adequate and the décor will appeal to travellers with a more conservative taste. There’s a spa and small gym too.

It’s very close to Hoesdpruit airport (Eastgate), and easy to drive to as well, the main gate being on the tar R40 road close to the town of Hoesdpruit.

Lion Sands Private Game Reserve

Rob More’s family have owned the land on which the Lion Sands camps stand, since the 1930s. Rob and I were at school together, and we were in our 20s when he asked me to join him in building a cultural village near there. We did it, a crazy idealistic project that used our youthful energy, but it was fun and we created a place called Shangana, which won many awards.

Rob and I would stay in their old family camp, walking the reserve at daybreak, drawing up our plans during the hot days, and driving into the bush in an old Land Rover for sundowner beers later. We got surrounded by lions, walked into buffalo, sat on the grass while elephants moved quietly past in the moonlight.

I got to know the land really well. The Sabi Sands is a reserve made up of privately owned pieces of land, with no fences between them or their famous neighbor, Kruger National Park. It’s famous land because of the density of animals, how close you get to them (they’re very relaxed with land rovers around) and because guests see the elusive leopard often, the trickiest of the Big 5 to see.

The More’s land is one of the largest, and they don’t share it with other camps (which many smaller camps do). And they have something special – miles of frontage on the Sabi River, the main river in the area, with Kruger on the other side.

In the year 2000 their wonderful old camp and its neighbor were swept away by floods. Rob’s late brother Nick and I went picking through the debris, finding pieces of furniture far downstream. It was time for the brothers to set about rebuilding, and they created the Lion Sands camp, and it’s ultra lux sister Ivory next door. Both have enviable locations on the river (it was a 100 year flood, so don’t worry about it coming down again in a hurry).
When Rob needed a new logo, and he called to say he’s always loved my handwriting, so please would I write the name down on a piece of paper. I did, and that became their logo.
Rob is a stickler for design and detail. The camps use lots of white in their interiors, especially at Ivory, which give them a clean and fresh feel. The staff are very warm, the food fresh and healthy. Raised wooden decks look out over the river, perfect for lazing away the hours between game drives with a good book and a pair of binocs.

If your budget extends to it, Ivory is really magnificent, among the best in South Africa. Vast suites, very private, looking out over the river. I haven’t yet been to the new villa, but it looks extraordinary. Fish Eagle Villa is the more recent addition, a very indulgent private camp-within-a-camp, with its own vehicle and own entrance.

The larger River Lodge is right next door on the same stretch of Sabi River, although the camps are kept completely separated and you won’t be aware of the neighbouring camp.

Marina Lodge and Tinga Lodge are on a private concession within the Kruger National Park, on the other side of the river. They weren’t built by the Mores, but taken over later and redecorated.

You’ll understand my fondness for the place after all this history. Very sadly, Rob’s inspirational wife Britt passed away but the two of them built up remarkable camps which I recommend very highly.

Notten’s

I haven’t been to Nottens in years, but I gather it has retained its old-fashioned charm. The Notten family stick to their way of doing things, like not having electricity, and using paraffin lamps and candles instead – and it works, creating a soft and comfortable feeling.

A lot must be said for a small camp, where you immediately feel part of the family. So many of the camps in the Sabi Sand have become lavish boutique hotels, which happen to be in the bush. At Nottens the whole bush experience feels much more real, not overtaken by modern conveniences.

The Notten family have long held onto a small property in the middle of the iconic Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, flanked by more famous neighbors like Mala Mala and Sabi Sabi. There are no fences between any of them, so the wildlife is the same. They share traversing rights with Sabi Sabi which enables them to drive over a wider range.

So a choice of staying here is about your personal style – if you like a warm, personable style, where you’ll share meals with the family and other guests, and your room is very comfortable but not OTT luxury, then this is a good choice.

Silvan Safari is a strikingly modern camp in the northern part of the Sabi Sand, the reserve famous for big five sightings, in particular leopard (I saw 5 during my stay there, including one on the deck outside the suite!)

It breaks the mould of the more traditional thatched camps in the area, with dramatic architecture. It’s a small camp with only 5 suites, but the main lodge is large (complete with a 25m long single lane) lap pool, and the suites are possibly the largest I’ve ever stayed in, each with huge deck and private plunge pool. They all look into a river bed, which is usually dry but often frequented by elephants and other wildlife.

Silvan is owned by David Ryan (who owns Rhino Africa, the very successful safari DMC based in Cape Town), and it’s clear he’s done lots of safaris as every detail has been considered. The furnishings are bespoke, the crockery is beautiful, the land rovers are superbly fitted out, food is excellent, even the range of gins and the tea in the suites are well chosen. The staff are warm and welcoming. It’s really hard to fault. There’s a spa and gym, and several land rovers (so you can opt for your own vehicle if you wish to pay the extra for that).

The buildings are cleanly designed modernist cubes combining generous glass windows with expanses of black painted wooden sides, almost the feeling of a contemporary art gallery. The colour makes them blend surprisingly well into the bush, but it won’t appeal if you’re looking for a more Out of Africa thatch or tented style.

Game viewing as you’d expect in the Sabi Sand is outstanding. Silvan has a good traversing area, neighbouring Singita, Londolozi and the Manyeleti.

It’s preferable to fly in, as road access is through bumpy village roads to get there via Gowrie Gate, which is on the Hoedspruit (northern) side of the Sabi Sand – not impossible, but allow extra time for this.

Singita Boulders

This is where the Singita empire started – on founder Luke Bailes’ family land in the middle of the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, famed for its amazing ability to deliver Big 5 sightings, especially of the elusive leopard.

I once stayed at Boulders and a French family was on a repeat visit, staying for 2 weeks this time. They were only interested in leopards. They had booked a private Land Rover and guide and each morning and evening they were out photographing those beautiful spotted cats. One of them even walked around our suite while we were dressing. As this family had learned, if you have the budget and want to see the Big 5 and be completely pampered, you can’t beat these 2 camps. They’re also easy to reach by scheduled Airlink flights from Joburg or charter your own plane.

Boulders and Ebony are next to each other; both are typical of South African lodges in that they’re under thatch and make use of natural colors and rock surfaces. But they stand out for their contemporary design interpretation, and Singita’s style guru Boyd Ferguson gives them regular refurbs so they’re always fresh.

I wouldn’t worry too much about which camp is better for you. Boulders has been completely redone since I was last there, and both camps offer a magnificent experience of dining, fine wines, large suites with plunge pools, and a casually warm but highly professional staff manner which Singita has somehow perfected. They’re heavily booked up, so it might be more a case of which has availability for your dates.

If you’re looking for a private villa, Castleton is really in its own league. It’s away from Boulders and Ebony in a more open grassland setting, and it’s Luke’s old family home. It manages to mix just the right levels of comfy homeliness with a very grand experience that will leave you feeling immensely well taken care of. Having your own team – chef, ranger etc – means being able to plan your own daily routine, which creates an extra sense of freedom.

Singita Castleton

This is where the Singita empire started – on founder Luke Bailes’ family land in the middle of the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, famed for its amazing ability to deliver Big 5 sightings, especially of the elusive leopard.

I once stayed at Boulders and a French family was on a repeat visit, staying for 2 weeks this time. They were only interested in leopards. They had booked a private Land Rover and guide and each morning and evening they were out photographing those beautiful spotted cats. One of them even walked around our suite while we were dressing.

As this family had learned, if you have the budget and want to see the Big 5 and be completely pampered, you can’t beat these 2 camps. They’re also easy to reach by scheduled Airlink flights from Joburg or charter your own plane.

Boulders and Ebony are next to each other; both are typical of South African lodges in that they’re under thatch and make use of natural colors and rock surfaces. But they stand out for their contemporary design interpretation, and Singita’s style guru Boyd Ferguson gives them regular refurbs so they’re always fresh.

I wouldn’t worry too much about which camp is better for you. Boulders has been completely redone since I was last there, and both camps offer a magnificent experience of dining, fine wines, large suites with plunge pools, and a casually warm but highly professional staff manner which Singita has somehow perfected. They’re heavily booked up, so it might be more a case of which has availability for your dates.

If you’re looking for a private villa, Castleton is really in its own league. It’s away from Boulders and Ebony in a more open grassland setting, and it’s Luke’s old family home. It manages to mix just the right levels of comfy homeliness with a very grand experience that will leave you feeling immensely well taken care of. Having your own team – chef, ranger etc – means being able to plan your own daily routine, which creates an extra sense of freedom.

Singita Ebony

This is where the Singita empire started – on founder Luke Bailes’ family land in the middle of the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, famed for its amazing ability to deliver Big 5 sightings, especially of the elusive leopard.

I once stayed at Boulders and a French family was on a repeat visit, staying for 2 weeks this time. They were only interested in leopards. They had booked a private Land Rover and guide and each morning and evening they were out photographing those beautiful spotted cats. One of them even walked around our suite while we were dressing.

As this family had learned, if you have the budget and want to see the Big 5 and be completely pampered, you can’t beat these 2 camps. They’re also easy to reach by scheduled Airlink flights from Joburg or charter your own plane.

Boulders and Ebony are next to each other; both are typical of South African lodges in that they’re under thatch and make use of natural colors and rock surfaces. But they stand out for their contemporary design interpretation, and Singita’s style guru Boyd Ferguson gives them regular refurbs so they’re always fresh.

I wouldn’t worry too much about which camp is better for you. Boulders has been completely redone since I was last there, and both camps offer a magnificent experience of dining, fine wines, large suites with plunge pools, and a casually warm but highly professional staff manner which Singita has somehow perfected. They’re heavily booked up, so it might be more a case of which has availability for your dates.

If you’re looking for a private villa, Castleton is really in its own league. It’s away from Boulders and Ebony in a more open grassland setting, and it’s Luke’s old family home. It manages to mix just the right levels of comfy homeliness with a very grand experience that will leave you feeling immensely well taken care of. Having your own team – chef, ranger etc – means being able to plan your own daily routine, which creates an extra sense of freedom.

Singita Lebombo

Singita took a giant leap in design when they built these 2 contemporary camps. Before, South African camps tended to be heavy, under thatch, with drab colors. Then came these – clean lines, bright, lots of glass.

They’re inside the actual Kruger National Park, on a private concession (so you won’t bump into the public). That makes it different to the Sabi Sand and other reserves which are private land. The landscape is similar, but there are some lovely gorges with yellow fever trees and great birding. Wildlife is great, this is Kruger, but not as habituated to vehicles as the Sabi Sands.

We were on a game drive one morning when we rounded a corner and saw breakfast had been laid out for us under trees, all beautifully presented by chefs in white hats. I thought I’d test them and ask for poached eggs, not an easy thing to make out in the bush. Or so I thought, but this is Singita, whose chefs are super well trained, and they were served effortlessly, perfectly.

Lebombo is the bigger camp, with amazing suites perched like glass boxes on the hillside, looking over the river below. Above, there’s a big pool, chic eating spaces, stylish food and an amazing wine cellar. Some of my friends find it too big, but I feel that’s made up for by its glamour and the amazingly personable way of the staff.

Sweni is a more intimate option, down by the river a short drive away. It doesn’t have the views of Sweni, but it has a more private feel, and the décor is perfectly suited to its tucked-away location, with dark browns and pops of bright green – feeling part of the forest.

The decor is a big thing at Singita, and the carefully considered interiors by Cape Town based designer Boyd Ferguson are well tuned here. Sweni is the latest to get a makeover. Because they’re so contemporary, if it’s your first safari I’d suggest combining with a more traditional thatched camp in another area. That will give two very different safari experiences.
You can drive to them through Kruger, but it’s quite a drive and much easier to fly in with a private charter from nearby Skukuza or KMIA airports

Singita Sweni

Singita took a giant leap in design when they built these 2 contemporary camps. Before, South African camps tended to be heavy, under thatch, with drab colors. Then came these – clean lines, bright, lots of glass.

They’re inside the actual Kruger National Park, on a private concession (so you won’t bump into the public). That makes it different to the Sabi Sand and other reserves which are private land. The landscape is similar, but there are some lovely gorges with yellow fever trees and great birding. Wildlife is great, this is Kruger, but not as habituated to vehicles as the Sabi Sands.

We were on a game drive one morning when we rounded a corner and saw breakfast had been laid out for us under trees, all beautifully presented by chefs in white hats. I thought I’d test them and ask for poached eggs, not an easy thing to make out in the bush. Or so I thought, but this is Singita, whose chefs are super well trained, and they were served effortlessly, perfectly.

Lebombo is the bigger camp, with amazing suites perched like glass boxes on the hillside, looking over the river below. Above, there’s a big pool, chic eating spaces, stylish food and an amazing wine cellar. Some of my friends find it too big, but I feel that’s made up for by its glamour and the amazingly personable way of the staff.

Sweni is a more intimate option, down by the river a short drive away. It doesn’t have the views of Sweni, but it has a more private feel, and the décor is perfectly suited to its tucked-away location, with dark browns and pops of bright green – feeling part of the forest. Decor is a big thing at Singita, and the carefully considered interiors by Cape Town based designer Boyd Ferguson are well tuned here. Sweni is the latest to get a makeover. Because they’re so contemporary, if it’s your first safari I’d suggest combining with a more traditional thatched camp in another area. That will give two very different safari experiences.

You can drive to them through Kruger, but it’s quite a drive and much easier to fly in with a private charter from nearby Skukuza or KMIA airports.

A long established family owned and run camp in the northern Sabi Sand, Chitwa Chitwa overlooks a small dam, with an airy main lodge furnished in a contemporary style and generous viewing decks.

I’ve always had the sense that owner Charl Brink keeps it updated and fresh, and when I visited in 2020 I was impressed with the décor and feel. Some family run camps can get a bit dated, but not this one, they stay on top of their game. Charl’s son Matthew is involved in the business too, taking care of the marketing.

The rooms have a contemporary feeling, they’re spacious and very well appointed, and also look out over the water. They’re set in irrigated gardens so it’s green around camp even in the middle of the dry winter.

Chitwa House is their exclusive use villa.

Being in the Sabi Sand means big five sightings are almost guaranteed, and we were lucky to see wild dog just a few hundred metres from camp.

Because it’s in the northern part of the reserve, driving access via Gowrie Gate takes longer than those in the south, but this won’t make any difference if you fly in.

Lion Sands Private Game Reserve

Rob More’s family have owned the land on which the Lion Sands camps stand, since the 1930s. Rob and I were at school together, and we were in our 20s when he asked me to join him in building a cultural village near there. We did it, a crazy idealistic project that used our youthful energy, but it was fun and we created a place called Shangana, which won many awards.

Rob and I would stay in their old family camp, walking the reserve at daybreak, drawing up our plans during the hot days, and driving into the bush in an old Land Rover for sundowner beers later. We got surrounded by lions, walked into buffalo, sat on the grass while elephants moved quietly past in the moonlight.

I got to know the land really well. The Sabi Sands is a reserve made up of privately owned pieces of land, with no fences between them or their famous neighbor, Kruger National Park. It’s famous land because of the density of animals, how close you get to them (they’re very relaxed with land rovers around) and because guests see the elusive leopard often, the trickiest of the Big 5 to see.

The More’s land is one of the largest, and they don’t share it with other camps (which many smaller camps do). And they have something special – miles of frontage on the Sabi River, the main river in the area, with Kruger on the other side.

In the year 2000 their wonderful old camp and its neighbor were swept away by floods. Rob’s late brother Nick and I went picking through the debris, finding pieces of furniture far downstream. It was time for the brothers to set about rebuilding, and they created the Lion Sands camp, and it’s ultra lux sister Ivory next door. Both have enviable locations on the river (it was a 100 year flood, so don’t worry about it coming down again in a hurry).
When Rob needed a new logo, and he called to say he’s always loved my handwriting, so please would I write the name down on a piece of paper. I did, and that became their logo.
Rob is a stickler for design and detail. The camps use lots of white in their interiors, especially at Ivory, which give them a clean and fresh feel. The staff are very warm, the food fresh and healthy. Raised wooden decks look out over the river, perfect for lazing away the hours between game drives with a good book and a pair of binocs.

If your budget extends to it, Ivory is really magnificent, among the best in South Africa. Vast suites, very private, looking out over the river. I haven’t yet been to the new villa, but it looks extraordinary. Fish Eagle Villa is the more recent addition, a very indulgent private camp-within-a-camp, with its own vehicle and own entrance.

The larger River Lodge is right next door on the same stretch of Sabi River, although the camps are kept completely separated and you won’t be aware of the neighbouring camp.

Narina Lodge and Tinga Lodge are on a private concession within the Kruger National Park, on the other side of the river. They weren’t built by the Mores, but taken over later and redecorated.

You’ll understand my fondness for the place after all this history. Very sadly, Rob’s inspirational wife Britt passed away but the two of them built up remarkable camps which I recommend very highly.

Lion Sands Private Game Reserve

Rob More’s family have owned the land on which the Lion Sands camps stand, since the 1930s. Rob and I were at school together, and we were in our 20s when he asked me to join him in building a cultural village near there. We did it, a crazy idealistic project that used our youthful energy, but it was fun and we created a place called Shangana, which won many awards.

Rob and I would stay in their old family camp, walking the reserve at daybreak, drawing up our plans during the hot days, and driving into the bush in an old Land Rover for sundowner beers later. We got surrounded by lions, walked into buffalo, sat on the grass while elephants moved quietly past in the moonlight.

I got to know the land really well. The Sabi Sands is a reserve made up of privately owned pieces of land, with no fences between them or their famous neighbor, Kruger National Park. It’s famous land because of the density of animals, how close you get to them (they’re very relaxed with land rovers around) and because guests see the elusive leopard often, the trickiest of the Big 5 to see.

The More’s land is one of the largest, and they don’t share it with other camps (which many smaller camps do). And they have something special – miles of frontage on the Sabi River, the main river in the area, with Kruger on the other side.

In the year 2000 their wonderful old camp and its neighbor were swept away by floods. Rob’s late brother Nick and I went picking through the debris, finding pieces of furniture far downstream. It was time for the brothers to set about rebuilding, and they created the Lion Sands camp, and it’s ultra lux sister Ivory next door. Both have enviable locations on the river (it was a 100 year flood, so don’t worry about it coming down again in a hurry).
When Rob needed a new logo, and he called to say he’s always loved my handwriting, so please would I write the name down on a piece of paper. I did, and that became their logo.
Rob is a stickler for design and detail. The camps use lots of white in their interiors, especially at Ivory, which give them a clean and fresh feel. The staff are very warm, the food fresh and healthy. Raised wooden decks look out over the river, perfect for lazing away the hours between game drives with a good book and a pair of binocs.

If your budget extends to it, Ivory is really magnificent, among the best in South Africa. Vast suites, very private, looking out over the river. I haven’t yet been to the new villa, but it looks extraordinary. Fish Eagle Villa is the more recent addition, a very indulgent private camp-within-a-camp, with its own vehicle and own entrance.

The larger River Lodge is right next door on the same stretch of Sabi River, although the camps are kept completely separated and you won’t be aware of the neighbouring camp.

Marina Lodge and Tinga Lodge are on a private concession within the Kruger National Park, on the other side of the river. They weren’t built by the Mores, but taken over later and redecorated.

You’ll understand my fondness for the place after all this history. Very sadly, Rob’s inspirational wife Britt passed away but the two of them built up remarkable camps which I recommend very highly.

Lion Sands Private Game Reserve

Rob More’s family have owned the land on which the Lion Sands camps stand, since the 1930s. Rob and I were at school together, and we were in our 20s when he asked me to join him in building a cultural village near there. We did it, a crazy idealistic project that used our youthful energy, but it was fun and we created a place called Shangana, which won many awards.

Rob and I would stay in their old family camp, walking the reserve at daybreak, drawing up our plans during the hot days, and driving into the bush in an old Land Rover for sundowner beers later. We got surrounded by lions, walked into buffalo, sat on the grass while elephants moved quietly past in the moonlight.

I got to know the land really well. The Sabi Sands is a reserve made up of privately owned pieces of land, with no fences between them or their famous neighbor, Kruger National Park. It’s famous land because of the density of animals, how close you get to them (they’re very relaxed with land rovers around) and because guests see the elusive leopard often, the trickiest of the Big 5 to see.

The More’s land is one of the largest, and they don’t share it with other camps (which many smaller camps do). And they have something special – miles of frontage on the Sabi River, the main river in the area, with Kruger on the other side.

In the year 2000 their wonderful old camp and its neighbor were swept away by floods. Rob’s late brother Nick and I went picking through the debris, finding pieces of furniture far downstream. It was time for the brothers to set about rebuilding, and they created the Lion Sands camp, and it’s ultra lux sister Ivory next door. Both have enviable locations on the river (it was a 100 year flood, so don’t worry about it coming down again in a hurry).
When Rob needed a new logo, and he called to say he’s always loved my handwriting, so please would I write the name down on a piece of paper. I did, and that became their logo.
Rob is a stickler for design and detail. The camps use lots of white in their interiors, especially at Ivory, which give them a clean and fresh feel. The staff are very warm, the food fresh and healthy. Raised wooden decks look out over the river, perfect for lazing away the hours between game drives with a good book and a pair of binocs.

If your budget extends to it, Ivory is really magnificent, among the best in South Africa. Vast suites, very private, looking out over the river. I haven’t yet been to the new villa, but it looks extraordinary. Fish Eagle Villa is the more recent addition, a very indulgent private camp-within-a-camp, with its own vehicle and own entrance.

The larger River Lodge is right next door on the same stretch of Sabi River, although the camps are kept completely separated and you won’t be aware of the neighbouring camp.

Marina Lodge and Tinga Lodge are on a private concession within the Kruger National Park, on the other side of the river. They weren’t built by the Mores, but taken over later and redecorated.

You’ll understand my fondness for the place after all this history. Very sadly, Rob’s inspirational wife Britt passed away but the two of them built up remarkable camps which I recommend very highly.