57 Waterberg

I’ve loved the Waterberg mountains since I worked at Welgevonden in its early days as a reserve in the 1990s.

I was dating the daughter of the head of the reserve – much has changed in my life since then – and we wrote a coffee table book about it. Part of the research process was getting to know the land long before all these smart camps were built; we had a beaten-up Land Rover but I preferred walking those hills and mountains, through gorges filled with trees, and across grasslands where wildlife would scatter, and drink in the streams which run clear water all year.

When the Welgevonden Private Game Reserve was created, strict rules were put in place for the camps which were built. This means they all offer a similar experience;

1. All Land Rovers share the same property, there are no exclusive use areas. The number of vehicles at a sighting is limited, so you won’t ever feel crowded.

2. Camps are small, which makes them intimate and friendly.

3. There are no private vehicles on the Welgevonden land – if you drive there, you’ll leave your car at one of the gates, and you’ll be driven to camp in an open Land Rover.

The downside is that the carrying capacity of the Waterbury’s grasses here is low, what that means is smaller herds of game. There are all the Big 5, but don’t expect big numbers, and I can’t remember ever seeing leopard there as they hide in the rocky ridges out of sight. I’ve had great sightings of cheetah though and often seen lions. White Rhino love it and are plentiful, and there’s plenty of diversity of animals.

Marataba Trails Camp

Sleep with the curtains open and allow the gentle sunrise light to awaken you to one of the loveliest views from any safari bedroom. And if you skip the morning activity and opt for a lie-in (always highly recommended for some chill time) you get to watch the light unfolding over the Waterberg mountains, with home-made biscuits and fresh coffee in hand.

This is a unique camp from a number of perspectives. It’s off-grid and solar powered, using local mountain water (which is delicious). You go on safari walks (hence the name “trails”) although drives have been introduced for the afternoon. And it’s very sophisticated, understated contemporary decor and healthy, beautifully presented food.

It’s also a small camp on a large concession area, so you lookout over these vast views and know you’re the only ones here, which is pretty cool.

Outdoor people will love the walks. They’re very well organised here, accompanied by 2 armed rangers. You tend to see less game than on drives, but you see more of everything else – trees, birds, landscape etc. You’re able to appreciate the small things, and your senses are on high alert. And of course you get to do some exercise.

Game drives are much noisier experiences, but animals are habituated to them so tend to not see them as a threat. When they detect walking humans they make a speedy exit. But it’s a great thrill being in their space, reading the signs of their activity – we tracked leopard and rhino without seeing either, but saw zebra and various antelope including eland.

I’ve always preferred walking to being on a noisy vehicle. If it’s your first safari, I suggest preceding a stay here with a conventional driving camp so you can tick off sightings. If you’ve done safari before book a few nights here – It adds a whole different dimension.

You need to be fairly fit but it’s not boot camp. I took my parents (in their 70s) and they loved walks on the plains. With my brother I went up the mountains, and my parents skipped that.

The camp is built on the slopes of a mountain, looking down the valley with majestic mountains on either side. Marataba have a big concession on the side of the Marakele National Park, which I rate as the most scenic reserve in South Africa – an awesome combination of plains and mountains.

It’s about a half hour drive from Marataba Safari Lodge. MORE run the 2 camps, and their attention to detail and personalized service are exceptional.

The 5 suites are thoughtfully designed, elevated and private, just the right amount of comfort without becoming over-the-top like so many other lux camps. They’ve recently built a pool which is a welcome addition in summer – the camp faces the afternoon sun so it gets hot in summer.

Marataba Safari Lodge

This is a more conventional and larger camp than nearby Marataba Trails Camp, with 2 defining characteristics – mountains and tents.

The mountains which the camp faces are really, really beautiful – a backdrop for meals on the lawn, a treat to watch as the light changes on them during the day. A famous South African artist called Pierneef used to paint mountains like these, and you can see why he was so captivated.

The tents are unusual for South Africa (they’re more common in East Africa) and add an attractive design element. I say this as they’re more about design than practicality – a hybrid of solid structure (floors, back walls, bathrooms) with a double canvas roof. So don’t expect a wild close-to-nature vibe, these are luxurious.

The central building of the camp isn’t tented apart from one small area, and if you’re a little anxious about being too far from comforts you’ll feel very comfortable here. Food is excellent with daily menus, lots of spaces to chill out, a pool, and lawn under a big tree with the mountains behind.

We had great sightings on our trip here – lion mating and on a kill, lots of rhino (21 in one game drive!) and elephant. But remember the Waterberg doesn’t have good grazing grasses, so herds are smaller than other reserves, and consequently fewer predators. They don’t have cheetah or wild dog. On the upside, there’s great variety of birds, especially in summer, with the variety of habitats – water, mountains & plains.

A great feature of staying here are rides on the pontoon – speak to your ranger when you get in to book this as there’s limited space! We saw rhino and lion on our cruise, and the birdlife was incredible – tens of thousands of Red Billed Queleas returning to roost making patterns in the sky.

Mhondoro

Mhondoro is bigger, smarter and overlooks a waterhole which attracts animals, but feels more like a hotel than the quirkier Nedile.

Ekurhuleni, Tshwane and  57 Waterberg follow the typical Welgevonden camp model – small camps built with the comforts of a city boutique hotel, but under thatch and with pleasant views into the surrounding reserve.

The more dramatic mountains are actually in the Marakele National Park next door (where the Marataba camps are), but this is still a very attractive area.

All in all, a great place for a first safari, especially if you’re travelling with kids as it’s malaria-free and easier to reach from Joburg closest good safari area to drive from Joburg – an easy 3 hours on great roads. I often recommend it to first-time safari-goers on a budget, as rates here are lower than other safari regions.

Nedile

Nedile camp is up on a ridge with views out over the hills, although they’re forested so you won’t see much game sitting there.

I’ve loved the Waterberg mountains since I worked at Welgevonden in its early days as a reserve in the 1990s. I was dating the daughter of the head of the reserve – much has changed in my life since then – and we wrote a coffee table book about it. Part of the research process was getting to know the land long before all these smart camps were built; we had a beaten-up Land Rover but I preferred walking those hills and mountains, through gorges filled with trees, and across grasslands where wildlife would scatter, and drink in the streams which run clear water all year.
When the Welgevonden Private Game Reserve was created, strict rules were put in place for the camps which were built. This means they all offer a similar experience;
1. All Land Rovers share the same property, there are no exclusive use areas. The number of vehicles at a sighting is limited, so you won’t ever feel crowded.
2. Camps are small, which makes them intimate and friendly.
3. There are no private vehicles on the Welgevonden land – if you drive there, you’ll leave your car at one of the gates, and you’ll be driven to camp in an open Land Rover.

The downside is that the carrying capacity of the Waterbury’s grasses here is low, what that means is smaller herds of game. There are all the Big 5, but don’t expect big numbers, and I can’t remember ever seeing leopard there as they hide in the rocky ridges out of sight. I’ve had great sightings of cheetah though and often seen lions. White Rhino love it and are plentiful, and there’s plenty of diversity of animals.

Nedile camp is up on a ridge with views out over the hills, although they’re forested so you won’t see much game sitting there. It’s quirkily built with lots of stone, but very comfortable with a big bath and outside showers with fabulous views. The small team really made us feel at home.

Mhondoro is bigger, smarter and overlooks a waterhole which attracts animals, but feels more like a hotel than the quirkier Nedile. Ekurhuleni, Tshwene and  57 Waterberg follow the typical Welgevonden camp model – small camps built with the comforts of a city boutique hotel, but under thatch and with pleasant views into the surrounding reserve.

The more dramatic mountains are actually in the Marakele National Park next door (where the Marataba camps are), but this is still a very attractive area.
All in all, a great place for a first safari, especially if you’re travelling with kids as it’s malaria-free and easier to reach from Joburg closest good safari area to drive from Joburg – an easy 3 hours on great roads. I often recommend it to first-time safari-goers on a budget, as rates here are lower than other safari regions.

Tshwene

I’ve loved the Waterberg mountains since I worked at Welgevonden in its early days as a reserve in the 1990s. I was dating the daughter of the head of the reserve – much has changed in my life since then – and we wrote a coffee table book about it. Part of the research process was getting to know the land long before all these smart camps were built; we had a beaten-up Land Rover but I preferred walking those hills and mountains, through gorges filled with trees, and across grasslands where wildlife would scatter, and drink in the streams which run clear water all year.

When the Welgevonden Private Game Reserve was created, strict rules were put in place for the camps which were built. This means they all offer a similar experience;
1. All Land Rovers share the same property, there are no exclusive use areas. The number of vehicles at a sighting is limited, so you won’t ever feel crowded.
2. Camps are small, which makes them intimate and friendly.
3. There are no private vehicles on the Welgevonden land – if you drive there, you’ll leave your car at one of the gates, and you’ll be driven to camp in an open Land Rover.

The downside is that the carrying capacity of the Waterbury’s grasses here is low, what that means is smaller herds of game. There are all the Big 5, but don’t expect big numbers, and I can’t remember ever seeing leopard there as they hide in the rocky ridges out of sight. I’ve had great sightings of cheetah though and often seen lions. White Rhino love it and are plentiful, and there’s plenty of diversity of animals.

Nedile camp is up on a ridge with views out over the hills, although they’re forested so you won’t see much game sitting there. It’s quirkily built with lots of stone, but very comfortable with a big bath and outside showers with fabulous views. The small team really made us feel at home.

Mhondoro is bigger, smarter and overlooks a waterhole which attracts animals, but feels more like a hotel than the quirkier Nedile. Ekurhuleni, Tshwene and  57 Waterberg follow the typical Welgevonden camp model – small camps built with the comforts of a city boutique hotel, but under thatch and with pleasant views into the surrounding reserve.

The more dramatic mountains are actually in the Marakele National Park next door (where the Marataba camps are), but this is still a very attractive area.
All in all, a great place for a first safari, especially if you’re travelling with kids as it’s malaria-free and easier to reach from Joburg closest good safari area to drive from Joburg – an easy 3 hours on great roads. I often recommend it to first-time safari-goers on a budget, as rates here are lower than other safari regions.